9/10/99


For connecting pieces of foam end-to-end, I found the "Hinge" method worked real well. Also, a "Zip-Lock" baggie with the corner cut works great as a 5-min Epoxy dispenser. Kinda reminds me of what a cake decorator would use. I made tracing paper copies of the drawings, placed them on the foam sheets, ran over the lines with one of those spiked wheels dressmakers use, dusted the holes with blue chalk, connected the dots, and cut the foam accordingly. Keep and eye on the parts that show a beveled edge and stay on the lines!

I would also like to mention, when you're starting to glass, I've found out through trial, error, and asking other people, that when applying micro to foam in prep for glassing, it seems to work best if you use the squeegee to scrape as much of the micro off as you can before laying the cloth. My seatback was nearly 1 pound heavier than average because I wasn't scraping it off because I thought it would make moving the cloth easier. Wrongo!!

This has been a great chapter for getting used to epoxy laminates. Also, a set of Sure-Form planes/tools is nice, as well as a couple of the PermaGrit sanding tools available from Wicks. These will make your construction easier, more accurate, and much more enjoyable.

These are the glassed bulkheads. Early on, I decided to peel ply everything I could. Some say it saves little weight, but apart from that, I like the smooth "non-weave" finish you get. I used a "Roto-Zip" tool for trimming. It reminds me of a Dremel tool on steroids. And in my opinion, this is a must have item. If you get the 1/4" carbide bit, you can trim cured glass a lot easier than using a saw, or trying to get back to the project during the infamous "stick of gum" stage. Watch out you don't use the wrong foam for LG bulkheads! There are 2 different types of foam which have the same dime

Chapter 4

Fuselage Bulkheads

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